Cool Winter makeup

What makes these shades work for you

Cool Winter sits on the cool and bright end of the seasons. It looks happiest in icy shades, jewel blues, sharp white and true black. Contrast is how much your skin, hair and eyes differ in darkness. Yours is high, so clear, strong colors can keep pace with you instead of getting lost next to your features.

You have probably seen the signs already. Fuchsia and cobalt blue sharpen your eyes straight away. Black worn near your face looks right even with very little makeup on. Silver jewelry in a bright finish looks crisp, while gold fights your coloring.

True winter makeup and what to leave out

Some people give this season the name True Winter, and the makeup stays the same. Your skin leans cool all the way through. An undertone is the quiet base shade beneath your skin's surface, and on you it falls on the pink and blue side, not the yellow side. Orange and warm peach drain your skin and leave it sallow, so makeup built on those tones will fight your coloring.

• Peach or coral lipstick: that orange undertone pulls your complexion toward a sallow look.
• Warm bronzer with orange tones: on cool skin it turns muddy rather than glowy.
• Copper and gold eyeshadow: warm metals like these fight your coloring, much as gold accessories do.
• Warm terracotta blush: that muddy brown red falls flat beside your clear features.

A cool plum blush, dusted lightly beneath the cheekbones, shapes your face without the warmth bronzer brings.

Cool winter lipstick

Your lips can handle bold color, and that's where this season really works. Blue red is the classic. It's a true red with a cool, faintly blue base: a close cousin of the True Red found in your clothing palette.

• Blue red: striking and timeless, for moments that call for a clear statement.
• Bright raspberry: a spirited berry pink that lights up your whole face.
• Cool fuchsia: mirrors the fuchsia in your palette and sharpens your eyes.
• Deep plum: a rich, dark shade made for evenings.
• Rosy pink: the gentlest pick, easy to wear by day.

Satin lipstick brings a soft sheen and keeps your face glowing: a happy match for a bright season. Sheer formulas are handy when you want quick daytime color. A very flat matte can feel heavy, though a gentle matte in a bold shade like blue red still wears nicely.

Blush on cool winter skin

Blush should read as a cool flush, never like a tan. Icy pink and cool rose feel gentle and suit fair skin or daytime wear. Berry and cool plum shades bring more depth, so they flatter deeper skin or an evening look. Begin with a light touch, since your high contrast lets even a small touch of color show.

Eyeshadow and eyeliner

Your eye shades stay among silver, grey, navy and lilac: never brown or orange. Icy lilac and icy silver wake up the lid. Charcoal grey and cool taupe lay a gentle shadow in the crease. Deep navy lines the lash line or settles into the outer corner to add depth.

Fine shimmer looks crisp on your lids, so an icy silver with a gentle sparkle makes a lovely evening pick.

Nail polish shades

Polish can lean dark or bright, as long as it keeps a clear, cool character. Crimson red and bright magenta give a crisp jolt of color. Deep burgundy and pure black come across as refined and feed your fondness for bold contrast.

A look for every day

1. Smooth on a foundation that matches you in daylight to even out your skin.
2. Dust your cheeks with a touch of cool rose or icy pink blush.
3. Line your upper lashes with charcoal to define your eyes without weight.
4. Add black mascara.
5. Finish with a rosy pink lipstick: satin or sheer both work.

A look for evenings

1. Pat icy silver eyeshadow across both lids.
2. Blend deep navy or charcoal grey into the outer corners for a soft smoky shape.
3. Trace jet black eyeliner along your upper lash line.
4. Sweep a soft berry or cool plum blush over your cheeks.
5. Put on blue red or deep plum lipstick.